Bangalore's Old and New (part 2)

As I was saying, to really give us a sense of the contrast between old and new Bangalore, Champaka made our next stop as different as possible. The rickshaw dropped us off in front of a huge, shiny glass mall owned by United Breweries (the company who makes Kingfisher beer). We entered through security gates, had our bags checked and proceeded up the grand escalators, passing the poshest boutiques you find all over the world. At the top we walked out onto a rooftop plaza surrounded by four towers that are meant to replicate four famous towers--though the only identifiable one to me was the squat version of the Empire State Building. The plaza was cool and far from the cacophany of horns and congestion that had just surrounded us. Here I wasn't the only westerner with an oversized camera around my neck. Posh cafes and outdoor restaurants attracted the tourists (the first we'd seen all day) and lots of Indian families out to enjoy their Sunday afternoon. We sat down at an outdoor cafe and relaxed with coffee (in ultra modern china). Despite our probing conversation about the woes of planning, I couldn't help but be distracted by the non-stop fun that the interactive fountain at the center of the plaza was providing kids of all ages. Each vertical stream of water fluctuated its height at irregular intervals. Daring kids made their way to stand near it for a cool down and almost inevitably they'd get surprised with a full stream in the face. We were in the middle of discussing how to face the obstacles that planning complicated urban environments brings on without getting burned out or giving up when I was was distracted by the bottom of the oh so chic water glass I was drinking out of. The label on the glass said "nambe." I shrieked, "this is a nambe glass, the New Mexican brand," to try to explain my excitement to Champaka. Actually, nambe is a pueblo in NM that has made itslef famous by creating top design lines of metal and glassware. It's a wedding gift I love to give people even though they're not registered for it. And so on the roof of this mall in Bangalore, I had my second it's-a-small-(commercial)world-after-all moment. The first being at the top of Table Mountain in Cape Town two years ago when Oakland-based singer, Goapele was played on the bar's stereo. Yes, I know it's just glassware, but it's New Mexican and we're in a far away place and I like that sort of thing.

Alas, after watching enough sopping children shout with glee and feeling like we had made a dent in trying to resolve the struggle of a planner amuck uncontrollable politics and processes, we left the touristy oasis and returned to busy Bangalore. Right next to the mall is a huge park left over form British rule filled with amazing shade trees, dense bamboo groves and strolling families in brightly colored saris. Almost seconds after entering the park we spotted a monkey (note: wildlife was spotted on Day 1) and a white-headed kite (looked like a miniature bald eagle). I had no idea what it was other than a bird of prey but after some discussion back home we came up with that name. Sorry, I didn't bring my Birds of Bangalore book with me.

We ended our first day with a great sampling of South Indian foods from the four states that make up the south. Champaka and Anil took us to swanky restaurant in walking distance from their home that had converted a beautiful modern residence into an restaurant with an urban garden setting.

On day two we headed out to the outskirts of Bangalore to see what has put the city on the international radar: the technology parks. But first we stopped by to meet Anil's parents.

Aside from sampling all sorts of delicious snacks that Anil's mom had made, the highlight was seeing the home that Anil beautifully designed for them. The house is complete with a water harvesting system (so the ample rainfall that Bangalore gets every year doesn't go unused) and made of sun-baked bricks (so it keeps cool even during the city's unbearable months). The kitchen and living room have a 2-story vaulted ceiling which keeps the air circulating and as Anil's father emphatically told us several times--they don't need a fan! Aside from functionality, the house has a playful grace about it with brightly framed windows and an elegant metal and wood staircase leading up to the bedrooms. It felt like a loft you'd find in a transitioning industrial area without the pretention. It made me want to return to my childhood dream of designing my own home.

Our next stop was at the huge security gate in front of Bangalore's first tech center. Apparently, security has increased since the Mumbai attacks; the guards said we couldn't enter without a permit. Despite Champaka's repeated explanation, "I'm an urban planner," we were turned away and instead looked at the center as outsiders along a perimeter road. This vantage point turned out to be the most telling way to experience this fairly recent type of development. On one side of the road was a 12-foot fence topped with rows of barbed wire; on the other were the portable vending booths selling the same basic items that we saw in the Old City. At the edge of the center's walls is what is left of the village that had occupied the area for generations. Dirt roads, one-story shops, open drainage, and raggedy dogs were what stood out to me during our quick visit. The level of poverty juxtaposed with the glassy, pristine (but less than pleasing design-wsie) office buildings beyond was striking. Apparently villages all around Bangalore's outskirts have been uprooted or wiped out completely due to the new tech parks.

Later, at another tech center, we wised up to the security guard's questioning and were able to get in. We had entered another world. Every blade of grass and shrub had been manicured just so. The paved streets were lined with brand spanking new lighting,modern glass office buildings and sculptures. It looked good from an architectural perspective, but it felt like an alter universe with security guards posted every 100 feet. But, we weren't the only intruders. I spotted another white-headed kite perched on one of the overly designed mullions and staring at its reflection in the mirrored glass.

I'm curious to see what the next 10-20 years will do to increase these differences in Bangalore's two worlds or perhaps the new money coming in will be used to help make improvements citywide.